Learn how to make a bandana with this simple sewing tutorial.

Making a bandana is a very beginner-friendly sewing project. So if you are newer to the world of sewing, you've picked a great project.

Does anyone else love and adore (everything) linen as much as I do?

I feel like linen is one of those fabrics that just go with everything. Literally everything!

It's a gorgeous fabric that just drapes beautifully. You can dress it up, dress it down. Style it any way you like and it looks (and feels) amazing. 

But there's a twist to this sewing project.

Curious? I made this bandana to have a snap closure instead of the typical bandana that is tied. Brilliant (and easy).

Some of these links are affiliate links. You can read my full disclosure HERE.

Video

If you'd prefer to watch a video for making the linen bandana, you can find that on my YouTube channel.

Is sewing a bandana a beginner friendly sewing project?

Yes, it absolutely is.

For this project, you'll need some very basic pressing and sewing skills. Sewing a straight seam and backstitching are involved.

So if you are just learning how to sew and want to make your own clothes and accessories, this is a great beginner-friendly project.

Where can I buy affordable fabric?

When it comes to finding affordable fabric for sewing projects there are so many resources out there.

• repurpose old clothing for small sewing projects
• thrift store always have fabric remnants really cheap
• repurpose old curtains, shower curtains and tablecloths

For this project I used linen. So I've linked a really good couple resources below.

Use caution when buying linen fabric online

But now you at least know where you can get quality linen fabric at a great price. Be cautious when buying linen fabric online. The item you think maybe linen may only contain a percentage of linen. This fabric source is 100% linen. This is what I use to sew all my linen DIYs. 

• Tan linen fabric 
• White linen fabric 

Supplies 

• linen fabric (2) 15" x 15" pieces of linen

• scissors or rotary cutter

• ruler

• cutting mat

• turning tool (this is AWESOME and is actually 4 tools in 1!!)

• iron and ironing board or wool pressing mat

• sewing machine and coordinating thread

• Kam snap tool and snaps

• sewing pins or clips (optional)

Fabric cutting dimensions for your bandana

• REGULAR SIZE: cut (2) pieces of linen fabric 15 inches by 15 inches
• MEDIUM/LARGE:  cut (2) 18 inches by 18 inches

Seam allowance

For this sewing project I used a ¼ inch seam allowance.

Sewing a bandana

Once you have your pieces cut to the dimensions you want, it's time to sew.

When sewing most projects, I prefer to use a thread that blends in (coordinating). This is a personal preference so you could definitely use a thread that contrasts so you see it. It's up to you.

• Thread your machine and bobbin with the thread color of your choice.
• You can use pins or clover sewing clips to keep your pieces held in place, but since this is a small-scale project I just opted to sew it without pinning or clipping. 

• Using a ¼ inch sewing foot or just a ¼ inch seam allowance, sew around the entire edge of your bandana leaving a 3 to 4 inch opening to turn your bandana right sides out. This will hide the raw edges and make your bandana look nice and finished. 

• Don't forget to backstitch at the beginning and the end of your lines of stitching.
• Once you have sewn all the way around and left your 3 to 4 inch opening to turn, head back to the ironing board with your turning tool and a pair of scissors.
• Before we turn the bandana RSO (right sides out), take a pair of scissors and carefully clip the corners of the bandana. Be sure NOT to clip through the lines of stitching. By trimming off the corners, your bandana will have much cleaner and sharper looking corners because you are removing the bulk from that area.
• After clipping all (4) corners, it's time to turn.

• Using a turning tool of your choice, turn your bandana RSO and then use your tool (this is the one I use and prefer), to push the corners of your bandana out. Be careful not to push out too forcefully as it could push right through the woven linen material. 

Press out your seams.

• Around the entire edge of your bandana, take and gently move your seams out. this helps to push the seam out so it lays nice and flat to iron. Rolling out the seams and finger pressing will usually provide a nice crisp edge all on its own without the need to iron. I still iron because that's just how I've always done it. 
• Once you have finger pressed all your seams out after you have rolled the seams out, gently give the edges a press. This will ensure things are laying nice and flat for topstitching.

• When you get to the edge where you have left your opening that you turned your bandana through, make sure the edges are all folded towards the center and pressed towards the inside. This will ensure that you won't see any of the raw edges when you topstitch. 

Topstitching

• After you have ironed your bandana, it's time to topstitch. This part of the project I guess could be optional too, but if you washed your bandana, the seams are going to puff out and you'll need to iron them flat again. I personally love the look of topstitching. I feel like it really gives projects a finished look.
• Using that edge of your bandana as a guide, sew ¼ inch topstitch around all the edges of your bandana. Be sure that when you are topstitching the area you left open for turning that the raw edges are completely sewn down. I usually start my topstitching on this side for that reason. 

• After I completed topstitching around the edge one time, I decided to do one more topstitching line ¼ inch in from the first line. Again, this is necessary. I wear bandanas a lot in the summer and when I'm hiking and gardening so I just really wanted this to look nice. 

Trim your threads

• Once you have finished all the topstitching you want to do, trim all the loose threads. I use these thread trimmers and they are my favorite. The tips are turned up so it makes it easy to trim super close to your projects. Highly recommend. 

• Here's what your bandana should look like once you have it all topstitched. 

Adding snaps to your bandana

• Grab your KAM snaps tool and the plastic snaps. You can use any snap color of your choice. I just prefer neutral tones.
• Most of the snap tools come with really great directions on how to use them. I always take a piece of scrap fabric and do a test BEFORE I punch holes into my project to install snaps. Especially if it's been a while since I last used it. 

Disclaimer

• You can usually find these snap tools at your local craft store too. These are commonly used to make cloth diapers as well as baby bibs of all sorts. I found that this one (pictured above), doesn't seem to secure the snaps as well as my KAM snap tool, but I'm still unpacking all my craft supplies in my new sewing/craft room and couldn't find my KAM tool (sad). So this is what I'm using today. However, I don't favor this brand at all. 

Placing the snaps

• Decide what (2) corners opposite of each other you'd like your snaps to be on. I like to include the corner that I left open for turning. This will make sure it's hidden since it will be snapped behind you. But it really doesn't matter. 
• Lay your bandana down in a diamond shape on your cutting surface. 

• After you have consulted the directions for use, grab the snaps you will need as well as your snap punch tool.
• Carefully take the sewing awl included in your snap punch kit, and puncture the fabric where you would like your snap to go. I placed my snap ½ inch in from the corner (for reference).

• After you have made the hole with your awl, carefully take the piece of the snap that has one smoothie/flat side and a side with a spike on it, and poke the spike side up through the hole. 

• Now take the corresponding snap to that piece and place it over the top of the spike that's coming through your linen fabric.

• Now take your KAM tool and seat the flat side of the snap into the little black cap on the snap tool. Make sure it's all the way centered in the cup. THIS IS IMPORTANT because pressing down on the tool when the snap is in the wrong place can cause the snap to break in half when trying to install it. 

• Once you know your snaps are in the tool properly, go ahead and squeeze down HARD multiple times to be sure the snap is really secured. 

Adding the second snap

• To install the other snap, you'll want to make sure that the flat side of the snap is on the OPPOSITE SIDE of what you did to the previous side. 

• Make the hole with your awl the same distance from the corner as you did with the other snap. BEFORE you secure it down with the tool, bring the corners of your bandana together (how you would if you were going to wear it), and check to see that the snaps would lay flat when snapped together. Then you'll know if you have them installed correctly. 
• Install this snap the same way you did the first one. 

Completed bandana

Pin it for later

Thanks so much for tagging along for another sewing tutorial. Hope you enjoyed making this simple bandana.

See you all next week.

Learn how to make a designer-inspired hobo sling bag with this FREE SEWING PATTERN and step-by-step sew-along tutorial.

Have you ever seen a bag and instantly fell in love? Well, that's how I felt when I saw the Bando bag by Clare V. But guess what? At the time of this publishing this blog post, it has officially sold out-again! Cue the tears.

So here we are. Attempting to re-recreate this designer inspired handbag with a bit of that DIY style.

Inspiration for making a designer inspired hobo sling bag

So I think it's pretty obvious where my inspiration for this hobo sling bag sewing project came from, right? Clare V. has down it again with her gorgeous Bando bag. This bag is simple in style which means it will be a classic.

Why the Clare V. Bando is so good

Well let's break this bag down in terms of functionality and simplicity. These are qualities I look for in a bag I want to sew or buy.

This bag is simple, which to me also means functional. With two kids in tow and always on the go, I need a bag I can throw stuff into with ease.

This bag has one internal pocket big enough for keys or a phone.

There is no metal hardware on the bag to weigh it down or that will also get hot in the sun.

It's made of the most buttery soft and supple leather, which also means you won't have to "break it in."

So for these simple reasons I chose the Clare V. Bando bag as my inspiration.

After doing some searching online for a pattern that was similar to size and shape, this is what I found. No I didn't try and attempt to re-invent the wheel here. I tried to create the pattern myself but without much success.

Turns out, the bottom of the bag is really challenging to do without a pattern.

And I'm not going to lie. This pattern is tricky in that very spot. Lots of curves. So maybe consider having a glass of wine before tackling that step. No seriously. Wine. Trust me.

Free designer-inspired hobo sling bag sewing pattern

So if you are interested in sewing along with me, grab your supplies and let's get started!

I have listed the dimensions for both bags as well as a list of supplies you'll need for this project below.

Dimensions for the LARGE bag: 11" wide x 10" tall, 11" deep x 18 drop

Dimensions for the SMALL bag: 9" wide x 8" tall x 9" deep x 17" drop

How to make a designer-inspired hobo sling video tutorial

Be sure and watch the full video tutorial for how I made the Hobo sling bag.

Supplies to make a designer inspired hobo

So here's a quick list of what you'll need to create your boho style bag.

1. Sewing machine
2. Thread
3. Material (exterior fabric and interior fabric)
4. Woven interfacing
5. Scissors
6. Pattern (print above)
7. Iron
8. Optional: magnetic seam guide to help keep your seam allowance accurate)
9. Fabric marking pen or chalk pencil
10. Ruler

Making a hobo sling bag

Step 1:

Pre-wash and iron all your fabrics. This will ensure that any fabric shrinkage or movement happens before you go through all the work of making your beautiful bag. If you are comfortable using your fabric without pre-washing, that's fine too. This is something I always do before sewing any project. It's been a habit of mine for years and will likely always be something I do.

What size hobo sling bag should I make?

The sizes for both completed bags are listed above so use those dimensions as your guide. I will tell you from experience that the small size is really small. I made one of these bags for my 7 year old daughter and it was a great size for her. However, if you don't love larger bags, then the small size may just be right for you.

Cut out the pieces for your summer festival sling bag

Again, using the finished measurements as your guide, cut out the pattern pieces for the bag you'd like to make.

Tape the pieces of your sling bag together

Match up the corresponding letter from each piece of the hobo sling pattern and tape them together to form the full pattern pieces. I prefer to tape the front and the back of the pieces to help reinforce them. Taping them on the front as well as the back also keeps them neater when it comes to storing them for later use.

Fabric cutting for your sling bag sewing pattern

Once you have decided on a fabric for the exterior and interior of your bag, it's time to lay the paper pattern pieces out, pin them onto your fabric and cut them out.

Follow the cutting guidelines in the pattern to make sure you have cut out the correct amount of pieces from each fabric

Learn how to make a DIY lined Christmas stocking with this simple sewing tutorial.

*Some of these links are affiliate links. You can read my full disclosure here*

Today I'm going to show you how to make a Christmas stocking. This is a beginner-friendly sewing project with lots of opportunities to personalize.

Grab your supplies, and let's start sewing! Santa will be here before you know it!

Why make your own Lined Christmas stockings?

There are a lot of reasons why you might choose to make your own Christmas stockings so let's go ahead and list off a few here.

For starters, there's really something so special about making something with your own hands. Creating a pattern from a few bits of paper, picking the perfect fabrics, then constructing something you'll use year after year during Christmas time.

Unlike a lot of people, I don't buy a new store-bought stocking each year for every member of my family. I prefer to use the ones that I've made myself. Call me old-fashioned I guess but there's something special in the handmade decorations.

Handmade Christmas stockings also make great gifts and are totally customizable. You can make from old pieces of well-loved clothing, choose a fabric that you know that person you are gifting to would love, and even embroider a name on the top band of the stocking.

How to make a Christmas stocking sewing pattern

Making your very own Christmas stocking pattern is very simple. Today I'll be showing you how to make a pattern from a stocking you may already have, or you can feel free to download the pattern I created for this tutorial.

Both are very simple to do. If you don't happen to have a stocking to use for a pattern, you can also borrow one from a friend or family member to trace. You can also head to your local thrift store and grab one for a couple of dollars.

DIY Lined Christmas Stocking Video Tutorial

[embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OjOgSfTy7oo[/embedyt]

Supplies you need to make DIY Christmas stockings

Let's go over what you'll need to sew these simple stockings.

1. You'll need an old stocking (for a pattern) or the pattern I provided above. Either will work for this tutorial.
2. Fabric. You'll want some fabric for the exterior, coordinating fabric for the lining of your stocking.
3. A piece of fabric for the band around the outside.
4. Ribbon or a small scrap of fabric that you can make a loop to hang your stocking from.
5. Sewing machine.
6. Thread (contrasting or coordinating-it's up to you).
7. Scissors.
8. Iron.
9. Pins or clips (optional-but I prefer to have them).
10. Cutting Mat (optional if you have a safe cutting surface).

Ideas to personalize your DIY Christmas stockings

1. Use old pieces of clothing. Now I'm in no way suggesting cutting up perfectly good clothing. But repurposing clothing that no longer fits or suits your taste instead of sending it to the thrift store is a great way to get some fabric-especially on a budget. It also helps keep clothing from landfills.

I really love repurposing old clothes for small sewing projects.

2. Buy a themed fabric that you know the person you are making the stocking for or gifting to will love.

3. Have a custom fabric made for your stockings. Websites like Spoonflower.com make some really fun fabrics and you can send them pictures to have fabric printed for you. Just note this can get pricey depending on the fabric base you select.

How to make a DIY lined Christmas stocking

Download the pattern or get a stocking you'd like to use as a pattern.

If you are using an old stocking for your pattern, you can skip the downloading part.

Begin by downloading your FREE pattern if that's what you're going to want to use. Cut out the pattern pieces (4 separate pieces of paper) and tape them together accordingly.

NOTE: When printing your pieces, make sure you print to scale and NOT at 100%. Otherwise, the pieces really won't fit together.

Match up the lines the best you can and tape. Once you have this done you are ready to cut out your fabrics.

Choose the fabrics for your Christmas stockings

You can pretty much use any fabrics you want to construct your stockings. I typically use 100% linen or quilting cotton but the flannel fabric is also really nice. You'll need a fabric for the exterior, fabric for the interior as well as for the band on the outside.

I really enjoy picking fabrics for my projects-one of my favorite steps of the whole creative process is putting colors and prints together. SO have fun with it!

Now is a great time to check your local big box craft stores for holiday printed fabrics and themed fabrics too. Most of them have these fabrics 50% off!!

Don't forget to take your coupons for an extra discount (applicable at certain stores only).

Cut out your exterior and lining fabrics

1. For the exterior and lining fabric, fold or place your fabric pieces RST (right sides together).
2. Place your Christmas stocking pattern onto the exterior fabric first. Pin in place.
3. Once your pattern is pinned to your exterior fabric, cut out your pieces leaving ¼ to ½ inch seam allowance all the way around as you cut. If you don't leave a seam allowance and choose to cut right along side the pattern, that's fine too. Just know that your stocking will be slightly smaller then what mine was.
4. Repeat the same steps for the lining fabric. Use the same seam allowance as you did for your exterior fabric.
5. Once you have finished cutting the main stocking pieces you should have (2) from the exterior fabric and (2) pieces from the lining fabric.
6. Decide on a fabric for the top band of your Christmas stocking. You can use a coordianting print, plain fabric or a contrasting print.
7. Once you have selected a fabric for the band of your stocking. Cut a piece that is 11 inches high. The length of the pieces will be determined by the width of your stocking at the top. Take that measurement, double it, and then add another ¼ or ½ inch (for the sewing seam allowance. *Whatever seam allowance you left when you cut your pattern is what you'll want to use*
8. Take a piece of ribbon that you want to use for a hanging loop and cut to 8 inches. Set aside.
9. Now that all your pieces have been cut. Let's pin.

Pin the Christmas stocking pieces together

1. Leaving the exterior (2) pieces of your stocking RST (right sides together), pin or clip them togther so they don't shift during sewing.
2. Repeat this step for the lining (2) pieces as well.
3. Fold the band fabric piece RST and pin along the 11 inch side only.

Seam allowance for the FREE Christmas stocking sewing pattern

• ½ inch

Use a ¼ inch or ½ inch seam allowance.

I personally prefer using a ½ inch for this pattern but ¼ inch will work as well.

*Just be consistent with the seam allowance you use. If you choose to use ½ inch, make sure you use the SAME seam allowance for the entire project.

Sew the EXTERIOR of your DIY lined Christmas stocking

1. Start with the (2) exterior pieces of your Christmas stocking pinned right sides together.
2. Sew using ½ inch (or ¼ inch) seam allowance all the way around the sides of your stocking. Be sure and leave the top OPEN. Do NOT sew this shut.

Sew the LINING of your stocking

1. Repeating the same steps you did for the EXTERIOR of your stocking, leave the pieces of the lining pinned right sides together and sew along the sides using the SAME seam allowance you did for the exterior.
2. Be sure and leave the top of the stocking liner OPEN as well. Do NOT stitch this closed.

Sew the top band of the stocking

1. With the 11 inch sides of the top band pinned right sides together, sew a seam using the same allowance you have been using to sew your stocking.
2. Once this seam is sewn, gently press the seam open.
3. Now fold your band wrong sides together and press.
4. Set the band aside.

Assemble the Christmas stocking

1. Turn the EXTERIOR of your sewn stocking right sides out. When this stp is complete, you should be staring at printed side of your fabric.
2. I recommend giving your stocking a press to make sure the seams are nice and flat. If you prefer not to iron, that's ok too. You'll really only need to do this step for the EXTERIOR.
3. At this point you can trim down your seam allowances to eliminate some bulk on your seams but this step is optional and will not affect the appearnance of your finished stocking.
4. Leaving the lining of your stocking as sewn, insert the lining into the exterior of your stocking.
5. Be sure the seams from both pieces of your stocking (exterior and interior) are together as best as you can.
6. Pin around the top band of your stocking. This will keep the lining and the exterior from shifting. You will have a raw edge at this point, but don't worry, you won't see it when your stocking is finsihed. I promise.
7. *This step can be omitted if you are a confident sewer* Using a basting stitch, baste around the top edge of your stocking using a ¼ inch seam allowance. Remove the pins or clips as you come to them.
8. You should now have the interior of your Christmas stocking sewn inside the exterior of your stocking.

Attaching the band of your stocking

1. Grab the band of your stocking that you stitched and pressed together previously. It's time to attach it to your stocking.
2. Insert the band of your stocking INSIDE the stocking, matching up the raw edges of the band to the basted raw edge of your stocking body. Be sure to match up the sewn side seam of your band and the side seam of your stocking. If this step seems confusing, refer to this step in the video tutorial.
3. Now grab your 8 inch piece of decorative ribbon and fold it in half. Again, matching up the raw edges of the ribbon.
4. Carefully place the ribbon loop side down, on the side seam between the band of your stocking and the lining of your stocking. The raw edges of the ribbon should be sticking out and past the top edge of the stocking ¼ inch or sew. This is to ensure that you catch the ribbon when sewing the band on your stocking.
5. Pin or clip around the entire top edge of the stocking, making sure the loop of ribbon doesn't shift (I pin this first).
6. Once the band, hanging ribbon and stocking are all pinned together, it's time to sew.

Sew your DIY Christmas sock together

*Remember to return your sewing machine stitch length back to the normal stitch length setting after previously basting. If you haven't done so already*

1. Using ½ seam allowance, sew completly around the top band of the stocking where you previously pinned. This is going to attach the band to your stocking.
2. Once you have finished sewing, trim your threads and press (if needed).
3. Pull the band from the center of your stocking and fold it out and over the outter body of the stocking. This step is going to hide that raw edge under the band.

Optional topstitching on the stocking band

1. If your sewing machine has a decorative stitch, you can definetly sew around the top edge of your stocking. You can also so this with a straight stich as well.
2. Do you want to personalize your Christmas Stockings? Consider embroidering a name and year on the band or use and embroidery machine for this step.

Your Christmas stocking is now complete.

Pin it for later

Check out the full Christmas tutorial playlist

[embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/embed?listType=playlist&list=PLnoEoUIyTFp_ai6fHkRDpx5Epe7WHdM6Y&v=6wGS-OmMuoA&layout=gallery[/embedyt]

Need a quick gift idea for Christmas? How about this Kitchen Apron.

Watch the tutorial and find the pattern and post HERE!

[embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXe-ayXf-1A[/embedyt]

I hope you all have a very blessed holiday season with family and friends.

This simple kitchen scarf sewing tutorial is a great project to sew up for all the bakers and homemakers in your life. Actually, for anyone who spends a lot of time in the kitchen.

Kitchen scarves are a quick sew and will easily become your favorite kitchen accessory.

Have you ever heard of a kitchen scarf before? Let me tell you, up until last week I hadn't either.

So let me show you how easy it is to make one! It would make a great gift for the holidays, a simple wedding gift or just for anyone who enjoys time in the kitchen.

• 

Some of these links are affiliate links. You can read my full disclosure HERE.

How to make a kitchen boa tutorial video

[embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gXe-ayXf-1A[/embedyt]

Why make a cooking scarf?

I spend a lot of time in the kitchen. Not just this time of year either. I do most of the cooking and baking for our family from scratch so I spend many hours each day in this area of our home.

I don't always have a clean apron handy so this seemed like a really great opportunity to make something practical for myself, as well as whip up a couple for easy Christmas gifts too.

Each Kitchen scarf took me about 20 minutes to sew up and would be a very manageable project for a beginner sewer.

You can customize these adorable kitchen scarfs by embroidering a name or nickname on them as well. I'm fortunate enough that I received my grandmother's embroidery machine when she passed away and I'm sure it would bring her great joy to know that it gets used a lot.

Supplies you need to make your kitchen scarf

(1) 42" long x 10" wide piece of fabric for the main part of your kitchen scarf. For this project I used a 100% quilters cotton fabric. But this would also be beautiful from linen.

(1-2) tea towels, flour sack towels or regular hand towels. If the towels you are using are small towels, you'll need (2). If you have one really large towel (like I did) you can get away with just having one and cutting it in half. Watch the video to see how I did this to eliminate having to sew extra seams.

• Ruler or measuring tape.

• Rotary cutter or scissors.

• Cutting mat.

• Iron.

• Sewing machine and thread.

• Pins or clips (optional).

• Magnetic pin cushion bracelet.

Any sewing machine should work just fine for this project. I always link the machine I used for each tutorial as it seems to be one of the most asked questions I get.

How to make the kitchen scarf

Making a kitchen scarf really only involves simple cutting and a few sewing steps.

Step 1: Cut your main fabric 42" long by 10" wide.

NOTE: for reference, I'm 5'4" tall and the bottom of this scarf hit me right below the waist. You can adjust the size as needed or to whatever length you prefer.

Step 2: After you have cut the main piece of fabric for your scarf, be sure and trim off the selvage edge if your fabric has one.

Step 3: Iron your fabric. If you don't need to do this, then just skip they step.

Kitchen towel shawl

I have made quite a few of these kitchen scarfs to gift over the years. I have always found that tea towels work best for me.

They are light weight and easy to sew through.

Step 4: I folded my flour sack towel in half and cut along the fold. This kept the seamed edge intact. That cut edge that doesn't look very finished will be put inside your main fabric so you won't even see it, so try not to focus on that.

Step 5: Cut flour sack towel in half (if needed). It's important to try and keep the seamed edge intact so you don't have to recreate it. If you are using regular terry cloth hand towels, you can also cut these in half so you can make one scarf from just (1) hand towel. This really is a project you can customize however you want.

Step 6: Now take your long piece of fabric and fold up the 10" edge ½" and press. You'll want the WST (wrong sides together) when you do this.

Repeat for the other 10" edge.

Step 7: Now that both of your 10" edges are pressed in, let's fold our piece of fabric in half lengthwise and press.

Step 8: Pin (or clip) along the long edge. This will just ensure the pieces stay aligned when. If you are comfortable just sewing, then that's fine as well. I literally pin everything.

Start sewing your cooking scarf together

NOTE: ¼" seam allowance is what I used for this project. You can also use ½" seam allowance if you are more comfortable with that. Just keep it the same on both sides of your scarf.

Step 9: Sew using ¼" (or ½") seam allowance down the long (42") edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end of your row of stitching.

Step 10: Turn your "tube" of fabric RSO (right side out).

I was able to just use my hands for this. If your hand doesn't fit into the tube, try using one of these.

Step 11: Once you have turned your "tube" of fabric so the right side is facing out, go ahead and give it a press. Again, this step is optional but just one of those extra steps I always do.

Towels for your kitchen scarf-how to fold them

Step 12: So depending on what types of towels you opted to use for this project, you'll want to fold them so the seams are all in the back. If you cut a towel down like I did, you want to also make sure the raw edges are all at the top

Step 13: Time to baste. So for this step, you'll want to set your stitch length to 5.5 (or so). This will make sure your stitches are loose enough to be gathered together.

Make sure when you baste, you DON'T backstitch. This is really important. You'll want to be able to easily pull the threads to "gather" your towel and this won't be easy if you backstitch.

Step 14: Once you have basted both pieces of your towel (or both your towels), and gathered them, you'll want to lay them on top of each other to make sure they are roughly the same width. Again, no need to be exact. Just close.

Topstitching your dish towel scarf

Step 15: Now open up one end of your fabric tube and insert your towel (raw edge) into it. I made sure mine was almost 1" into the tube to ensure that it wouldn't become weak and pulled out easily. Again, do what your comfortable with.

Pin in place making sure the gathered parts of your towel look evenly spaced.

Repeat with other towel on the other end of the scarf.

NOTE: You'll want to be sure that the back of your towels are faced the same way on your kitchen scarf so that when you are wearing it, the folded area of the towels are facing your body, however, either way, will work.

Step 16: If you have a machine that can sew decorative stitches, this would be a great project to use it on. I'd say that it will likely be easier on your machine if you are using thinner towels.

However, this will also depend on the make and model of your sewing machine and how it is capable of sewing layers. The machine I used for this tutorial is a straight stitch machine only. I ended up sewing (3) seams ¼" apart for some decorative flare to my kitchen scarf.

Step 17: Repeat this step for the other side.

Step 18: Your kitchen scarf sewing project is now complete!

I hope you all enjoyed this sewing tutorial today. Thanks for stopping by our handmade home. Until my next tutorial, happy sewing everyone.

More sewing tutorials from our homestead

• Bucket bag

• Fabric basket

• Log cabin quilt

[embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/embed?listType=playlist&list=PLnoEoUIyTFp-DEyvbunLf2XRIID5fESX9&v=2OW0bv1fu4Q[/embedyt]

This playlist contains 14 sewing tutorials with FREE patterns, step by step instructions and more!

Learn how to make this Christmas countdown chain just in time for the holidays.

I love being able to make decorations for my house for Christmas. My kids usually bring a lovely red and green paper chain home each year, but as we all know, things are a bit different this year #christmas2020. So that's how this idea was created.

FREE Christmas Countdown Chain Sewing Pattern.

How to make a Christmas Countdown Chain video:

[embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6wGS-OmMuoA[/embedyt]

Some of these links are affiliate links. You can read my full disclosure here.

Other holiday posts you may enjoy

• Lined Christmas Stocking

• Cheese Spread Appetizer

What do you need to make a Christmas Countdown Chain?

I always get specific with my lists of materials and supplies that I use in my tutorials. But feel free to use items that you have or whatever you can find at your local craft store. This is supposed to be a functional Christmas decoration that matches your style-have fun with it!

Play around with different fabrics and colors. You can always use Christmas-colored fabrics, not just Christmas themed fabrics-although these are cute as well. If you have a particular color you use in your home to decorate, feel free to use it for these fabric rings too. Ok, now back to the materials and supplies list.

1. Fabric. I used (5) fat quarters of fabric that were Christmas colored but not Christmas themed. You'll need (25) pieces cut 4" wide by 11" long each. This is a great scrap-busting project.
2. FREE sewing pattern. You can download this above. You don't need this paper pattern template if you are going to use a ruler and rotary cutter.
3. RULER. I used this STRIP RULER to make the cutting a bit faster. But a REGULAR RULER will work just fine.
4. SCISSORS or ROTARY CUTTER. I also use THESE, to trim my threads.
5. CUTTING MAT or surface that's safe for cutting.
6. SEWING MACHINE. This is the machine I was using, but any machine will work.
7. IRON.
8. Thread. You can use a coordinating thread (one that matches), or a contrasting thread if you prefer your stitching stands out. Again, get creative!
9. SNAPS, velcro, or buttons. Just remember, if you are going to be using buttons, you'll need the specialty foot for your sewing machine. Most machines come with this so make sure you check your sewing machine manual for how to attach and use it. I used the snaps and snap tool and you can find those HERE.
10. PINS or CLIPS. This is probably something you could honestly make do without. I also used MAGNETIC PIN BRACELET to hold my pins while I sew.

Pin it for later

Select fabrics for your Christmas chain and iron.

Pick the fabrics you want to use for your fabric chain. Remember, you need pieces that are 4" wide by 11" long so you can use scraps as long as they are large enough.

After you have decided on your fabrics, give them all a quick press with your iron. This will make cutting them out a lot easier. I stacked all my fabric and used a strip ruler to cut all my pieces out at the same time but a regular ruler and scissors will also work.

Cut the fabrics for your Advent chain into strips.

You have many different options to get your fabric cut into the correct sized pieces. I neatly stacked all my fabric pieces and used a strip ruler to cut all my pieces out at the same time. This isn't necessary but it is a time saver.

You'll need to cut the strip 4" wide by 11" long. If you don't have a quilting ruler, don't worry-just download the pattern I made for you and you can place that directly onto your fabric and cut your strips out that way too. You can find the pattern with the "download" button towards the top of this post. Print as many copies as you'd like.

Press all your fabric strips.

Again, this step is easier if you press (iron) all your pieces at the same time and then you can sit and batch sew them all at once. If you prefer to press one, then sew it, that's ok too! This is where watching the video will come in handy. You can see exactly how I pressed to enclose all the raw edges. But I will try and explain the best I can and hope it makes sense.

A. Press each 4" side in ½" with wrong sides together.

B. Next, press fabric piece lengthwise in half. Then open piece back flat.

C. Then take of the 11" sides and fold to meet the center pressed seam you made with your iron and press.

D. Repeat Step C. for the other 11" side. You piece should now roughly measure 2" wide x 10" long (again, you don't have to be exact).

E. Now take your fabric strip and fold in half lengthwise again. Press (if you need too). Pin or Clip (optional). Your strip of fabric should now measure 1" wide x 10" long.

I hope that all made sense. If you're still with me so far-BRAVO!!

It's time to make your Christmas Countdown Chain!

Note: ¼" seam allowance.

Select the thread that you want to use for your rings. Again, you can use a contrasting thread that will stand out or a coordinating thread that you won't see as well. I typically go for a coordinating thread but chose a contrasting one for this tutorial so it would be easier to see on camera. But have fun with it.

For these fabric rings I used a ¼" seam allowance and sewed around all (sides) so it looked symmetrical. However, you can just sew over the (2) short ends and the long open end to close things up.

You can also do a larger seam allowance, or a smaller one. Whatever gives you the look that you like-go for it!

Trim loose threads from your countdown chain.

After you have sewn all (25) of your fabric strips, trim all your threads.

Attaching a closure to the countdown chain

So for these fabric strips, I chose to use THESE SNAPS. I found this step to go really quickly rather than having to sew hook and loop (velcro) to each one. Again, if you have velcro, I would just use it. Why buy something else right? But if you prefer the look of the little plastic snaps, then do that. You can always use the snap tool and snaps later for other projects-I know I do.

You can also attach a buttonhole foot to your machine and sew a buttonhole and attach buttons. I think this would look so cute! I didn't have that many smaller buttons to use otherwise I would have likely done this instead. Refer to your sewing machines user manual for this step. Buttonholes are not something I do all the time so I myself still have to refer to my manual from time to time.

Connect the loops of the countdown chain together.

Congratulations! You have just completed this lovely (and yet simple) Christmas craft project. I hope you and your family are able to enjoy this countdown chain for years to come.

I hope you all have a Merry Christmas and a very blessed New Year.

Today I'm sharing all the best sewing essentials for every beginner sewer or quilter.

It has taken me quite a few years (12 to be exact) to figure out what works the best for me when sewing a new article of clothing for my wardrobe, a bag or quilt. A good set of basics will make sewing a little easier and far more enjoyable, especially if you are just starting out on your sewing journey.

So I thought since I shared all about this on my YouTube Channel, that I should write a detailed post about it too.

I tried to include a sewing equipment list with pictures for the folks like me who prefer to see what it is rather than just a list.

Basic beginner sewing essentials are the foundation of a good relationship with sewing, quilting and clothes making so let's jump right in!

Some of these links may be affiliate links, you can read my full disclosure HERE.

You do not NEED all of these things to begin sewing. However, most of these things that I will be discussing are listed because I have found that they make my time sewing a lot easier, therefore more enjoyable.

The Best Sewing Essentials For Beginners Video

Click on the links in the table of contents to take you directly to a certain section of the post.

What Do I Need To Sew As a Beginner?

Obviously as a beginner sewer or quilter you aren't going to need everything on this list that I'm reviewing/discussing today. But these are some things that should be on your list of future purchases if sewing becomes a more serious hobby.

Like everything, having the right tools to complete your sewing tasks will make things so much easier and more efficient.

What Are Sewing Accessories?

Basic sewing accessories are the things that you need that will help you complete your sewing projects. Accessories can include things like scissors, pins, rulers and so on.

Gadgets have the ability to make things so much easier. Am I right? If you are a sewer, quilter or crafter then obviously you know this is true. Notions are just one of those things that have the ability to simplify. When I find a new one I always think, "why didn't I think of that?!"

Am I the only one that gets giddy when I find that new special tool at a craft or hobby show? Gosh I hope not. Let's get to my list of top ten sewing essentials that I personally think you can't live without. Let me know if you have any of these tools and how you like them.

Can You Teach Yourself To Sew?

Absolutely!

There are so many resources available on the internet these days that get started sewing is easier than ever!

If you don't know anyone that sews, and still want to learn, don't be intimidated. Start small. Get the basics you need to complete, small, simple projects and work your way to more complex sewing endeavors.

Books are another great resource. Whatever sewing looks like to you whether it's sewing quilts, handbags or clothing, you can find wonderful resources for all of them.

Don't forget about classes. If you are looking for a more comprehensive way to get started all in one place, check out platforms like Craftsy. You can preview courses you want to take for very specific things and it's a great way to learn at your own pace.

The Best Sewing Essentials For Beginners

Beginner Sewing Machine

I guess it's pretty obvious to say that if you want to sew, you need a sewing machine.

That being said, there are so many machines on the market these days that it may seem overwhelming to find one that is going to suite all your sewing needs, and last you a while.

This is the machine I started with. It last me a couple years, before I finally decided I was ready to sell it and buy something a little more advanced.

It's a great sewing machine for beginners. It has a zig zag stitch, can sew button holes, and I found it to sew through layers without an issues.

If you aren't ready to invest in a sewing machine brand new, don't forget to check out your local FB marketplace, Offerup and Craigslist. You may be able to find somethings similar for a fraction of the price.

The Best Sewing Machine For Beginners

You can find this machine HERE.

4 in 1 sewing tool: Seam Ripper, Stiletto, Presser, Turning Tool

To get started with our sewing essentials list, I thought I'd show you this multipurpose sewing tool.

The elusive Alex Anderson 4 in 1 tool. This is probably the number one notion I get asked about in my YouTube sewing videos. It seemed like an obvious choice to put it first.

What is it you ask? Let me explain the jobs it can do.

This tool is exactly as it says. 4 tools in 1! Thats a win for me. Alex Anderson did us all a great service by making something so compact that can do the job of four-and in one handy tool no less.

Let's start by listing all the things this handy sewing gadget can do:

• Seam ripper.
• Stiletto.
• Presser.
• Turner.

This 4 in 1 tool is made of smooth wood it's simple and beautiful.

The Alex Anderson 4 in 1 tool

This tool has an ergonomic grip as well. The middle part of the handle is square cut, but the edges remain smooth so it doesn't hurt your hands to have to hold it for a prolonged period of time. Say ripping out?

Final thoughts on this tool? Get one, and you can thank me later.

Cutting Mat

If you plan on using a rotary cutter to cut your fabric, then a cutting mat is essential.

A cutting mat will protect the surface of your counter top or table so the blade of the rotary cutter doesn't slice right through it.

Rotary cutters are extremely sharp and all caution should be taken when using them to protect fingers and furniture.

I have used many cutting mats over the last 12 years, and I always go back to the Olfa self healing mats.

The price will vary greatly depending on the size of the mat you purchase. I have 6 of them in different sizes. I would say that if you buy just one, I recommend the 24 inch by 36 inch size. It is the one I use the most.

You can find it HERE.

These cutting mats are a really great addition to any sewing room. Heres a few of the reasons why may want to consider upgrading to one of these mats.

Olfa Cutting Mat

• Self healing mat. This just means that when you use your rotary cutter to cut your fabric, the mat isn't left with deep grooves that inevitably your rotary blade will find in the future with ease. These mats heal themselves so the groove lines aren't noticeable.
• Longevity. These mats have lasted me much longer than any of my other cutting mats.
• Size availability. These mats come in quite a variety of sizes.
  • Functionality. My 12 inch by 12 inch rotating cutting mat makes cutting small quilt squares far less painful. No more lifting the fabric to make another cut. Spin the cutting mat (like a lazy Susan), and make your next cut. You can find that cutting mat HERE.

Iron

Like everything when it comes to sewing, quilting and clothes making, you'll find certain things that you love and certain things that are a nuisance.

For me, I do not enjoy having a cord from my iron that gets tangled up when I'm trying to get things pressed. I personally have really enjoy cordless iron.

Features of the Panasonic cordless iron

• Steam or dry iron options.

• Low, medium and high heat setting.

• Retractable cord for easy storage.

• Lid with carry handle.

• Removable water well (for easy filling).

Retails for $55-$89.00. Price will vary depending on where you find it.

I have had both of my cordless irons for 5 plus years and they are still going strong.

Magnetic Pin Cushion with Pins

Magnetic sewing pin cushions are so helpful in a room full of sharp pins. If you've ever dropped a regular pin cushion on the ground and later found a lost pin with your foot, this may be the thing for you.

The magnetic grabs hold of those sewing pins and keeps them nicely in place. If you drops pins on the ground while sewing it's also much nicer to pick them up with this then with your hand.

Retail $12-$14.00.

Grabbit Magnetic Pin Cushion

These pin cushions come in a variety of colors.

Most brands magnetic pin cushions come with sewing pins. The ones pictured on my pin cushion are sold separately. Because these particular pins have a silicone top, they won't melt if you touch them with the iron.

If you are interested in these "magic pins," you can find them HERE. However, the pins that come with these pin cushions work just fine too. So don't feel like you need to purchase separate ones.

The pins won't ever just fall off.

Place a couple ruler grips on the bottom like I did to keep your pin cushion from sliding around on your sewing table.

Sewing Clips

I didn't discover sewing clips until much later on in my sewing/quilting journey. Once I saw someone using them to bind a quilt I knew that I would never use pins again for binding.

I bought some for myself and they are truly magical.

Sewing clips can also be used in place of pins for most projects.

Pros and Cons of Clover Sewing Clips

• Clips are more expensive than pins.
• I have had better luck with brand name clips than generic brands that didn't clip as tightly and seemed to break easily.
• You will need quite a few to do a large quilt IF you want to clip it all at once instead of doing one side at a time.
• The clipping mechanism is really strong and holds fabric tightly.

Thread Scissors

I have a pair of thread snips hanging from each one of my sewing machines. I adore these particular ones.

You can also use a regular pair of scissors to clip threads. I just found that these little thread snips work better for my needs.

Havel Mini Thread Scissors

• Made of stainless steel.
• Lightweight.
• Spring like snipping action causes less hand fatigue with use.
• Curved blade makes it easy to trim threads super close to your fabric without poking your fabric with the end of your scissors.
• Affordable? I didn't think so at first, but they are so worth the money and glad I made the investment. I haven't bought snips in such a long time that I really don't have anything to compare the price to.
• You can find the thread snips HERE.

If you are needing to purchase some new thread snips, give these a try. I think you may be surprised at just how much you love them.

The Best Rotary Cutter

I have quite a collection of rotary cutters. This is the newest one to my collection and the only one I really use anymore.

At first I was hesitant to spend the money, but I'm really glad I did. It is by far my favorite and the only one I find myself reaching for.

I will be sharing two different rotary cutters with you, and you can choose the one that best suites your budget.

Pros of the Quilters Select Rotary Cutter by Alex Anderson

• This rotary cutter weighs more than the standard rotary cutter. It's all metal parts.
• The handle is really nice to hold. Has silicone inserts for a comfortable grip that won't slip.
• Easy to change the blades.
• Press the button on the handle and "tap" the blade on your cutting surface to engage the blade to cut.

Quilters Select Rotary Cutter

• When you're finished cutting, just flip the rotary cutter over and give it a quick tap to disengage the blade back into safety mode.
• The weight of the rotary cutter helps prevent fatigue when cutting. You don't have to press your weight down as hard to obtain an accurate cut. The weight of this helps with that. I think thats the number one reason I like this so much.
• Pretty expensive for a rotary cutter? Yes. Yes indeed. But my dad has always taught me that if you buy quality up front, you won't have to replace it later. So I made the investment.
• These rotary cutters have a hole on the end of the handle so you can hang them on a notions wall in your sewing or craft room. Love this feature. I don't personally hang my rotary cutters or scissors but most of my sewing fiends do. So I'd consider this a bonus.

If you are looking for a more affordable, but ergonomic rotary cutter, try one of THESE (same brand as the cutting mats I shared). These are the only rotary cutters I used prior to purchasing the quilters select one.

These are a fraction of the price, ergonomic and easy to use.

Squeezing the handle engages the blade to cut, release the handle and the blade returns to safety mode. I honesty believe that these are a close favorite to the quilters select brand. If I hadn't have found the other one this year at the sewing expo, I'd still be using my Olfa cutter and that would be just fine.

Acrylic Quilting Rulers

Clear acrylic quilting rulers make cutting pieces and strips for quilts so simple.

Like everything, there are many different versions of these rulers, but the lip edge rulers are my all time favorite.

O'Lipfa Ruler with Lip Edge

These rulers are going to help with accuracy and change the way you look at all your other rulers.

These rulers are made of clear acrylic plastic. This makes them really easy to read and use. The lip edge on the end of the ruler hooks onto the edge of your cutting mat making it easy to keep your cutting lines super straight.

You can find the guide to attach your rotary cutter HERE. It's also made by O'Lipfa (pictured below).

Wool Pressing Mat

Wool pressing mats have only recently become really popular. I have had mine for only 6 years or so.

The Pam Damour Wool Pressing Mat and Clover Mini Steam-less Iron.

OK. First things first. The wool pressing mat. They are NOT all created equal. How do I know? I have purchased three other mats that were definitely lacking in quality before I settled on the Pam Damour version.

Don't make the same mistake I did and try to purchase a slightly less expensive one. The other versions I got were not very dense and honestly didn't smell like wool. This led me to believe that they were not 100% felted wool.

I also wasn't able to find anything on the packaging that said they were in fact wool. Oddly enough they were advertised as such, but when I received them I was really disappointed.

Benefits of using a wool pressing mat

• This mat contains dense wool fibers that trap heat. This allows you you to press both sides at the same time.
• Because these are felted wool, they provide a firm surface for pressing quilt squares without stretching your fabric.

Disclaimer: Because I want to be totally transparent, when using steam on these they do give off a smell like wet wool. I personally don't mind the smell. I'm a knitter and I love the smell.

It's not strong enough to be offensive by any means, but it is wool. Wool is a natural fiber. So if you are sensitive to smells or allergic to wool, obviously I don't recommend these as safe to use for you.

Mini Pressing Iron

Next up is the Clover wedge iron. I just call it my mini iron.

I currently own two different mini irons. This is the one I reach for most but both of them work great.

You can find the other one I use HERE. The only one I'm covering today is the Clover brand because it's the one I use most.

Height Adjustable Sewing Table

The Ikea Skarsta sit to stand desk makes the perfect sewing table (in my own opinion).

I love that it is height adjustable. This feature makes it easy to use as a cutting table or a sewing table in any height that is comfortable for me.

Often times when I'm spending hours sewing, it's nice to be able to stand a sew for a bit.

I own two of these tables and have never regretted the purchase.

These tables are available with a white base or a dark (almost black) color. I opted for white with a solid wood top.

You can also purchase this desk with a melamine top (in white). Check your local Ikea store for availability.

If you are looking to buy one of these desks but it isn't in the budget? Check your local Facebook marketplace or craigslist for a slightly used one.

• The smaller IKEA table retails for $249.00 for the smaller table (47.25 inches long by 27.5 inches deep).
• Retails for $279.00 for the larger version (63 inches long by 31 inches deep).
• Height adjustable.
• Perfect height for a cutting station or to stand and sew.
• The Skarsta desk is also available in an electric model. However, it's quite a bit more expensive. For this reason, I chose to purchase the crank model instead.

Ikea Skarsta Desk for a Sewing Table

• You are able to purchase the top and base of the desk separately. I opted to purchase the butcher block top from IKEA instead. I felt like having a desk top of solid wood would
• It's really heavy. Won't tip over easily. Roughly 75 pounds for the larger version.
• It has a large work surface. Can hold multiple sewing machines.
• White color with white top or white base with faux wood top.
• Another plus? It's available at IKEA so you can order online for home delivery (for a fee). Or order online for in-store pick-up (free).

Hope you all enjoyed seeing this list of my top 10 sewing essentials. I truly love each one of these items and have used most of them for years.

Shop This Post for the BEST BEGINNER SEWING ESSENTIALS

• Sewing Machine
• Sewing Table

Any firm surface will work for a sewing area. But if you are looking for a height adjustable option, be sure and check these two out!

• Ikea Skarsta
• Husky

I own both, so I can say that they are both equal in value, price, and functionality.

Here are a couple extra things that can help if you are a beginner sewer.

• Wool Pressing Mat
• Seam Gauge

What Are Some Of The Easiest Things To Sew As A Beginner?

I have done quite a few tutorials on my YouTube Channel as well as here on the blog that are great beginner sewing projects.

• Tote Basket (free pattern included in 2 sizes)
• Fabric Shawl
• Bandana
• Christmas Stocking
• Coasters

Under the "handmade" or "sewing" tab you'll find more projects that I've done.

What Do I Need To Start Sewing My Own Clothes?

Most of the items I have mentioned above you will need to begin sewing your own clothing.

But let me share a quick list that may vary slightly if you are intending on sewing mostly clothes.

• Sewing Machine

• Sewing Machine Needles (size and brand may be specific to your make and model of sewing machine-check your users manual)

• Thread (buy the color you need to coordinate with your sewing project)

• Iron

• Scissors (for cutting paper patterns)

• Fabric Scissors (for cutting fabric only)

*you can use the same pair of scissors to cut your patterns and fabric but I do NOT recommend this option long term. Using scissors to cut both pattern paper as well as fabric will result in dull scissors that will need to be sharpened frequently*

• Rotary Cutter (optional but can speed up the process)

• Cutting Mat (if you are intending on using a rotary cutter)

• Pins

• Clips (pins are fine if you aren't ready to invest in alternatives)
• Seam Gauge (really helpful for beginners)
• Seam Ripper

OPTIONAL ITEMS FOR CLOTHING SEWING:

• Pattern Weights

TIP: You don't have to use sewing specific pattern weights. I like to use marble drink coasters instead. They were the same cost as pattern weights, just as heavy and I find they actually work better. Here is one of the sets I have.

• Pattern Notcher

• Seam Gauge
• Fabric Marker
• Pinking Sheers

Pin It!

As always I will only recommend products that I know, use and trust.

Thanks so much for stopping by.

Learn how to make this DIY hanging chair from a drop cloth.

I have always loved to give homemade gifts for all occasions, so when it came to my son's birthday, I thought this swing would be perfect.

He's a born busy body and therefore this hanging chair was just what he needed. Oddly enough, his sister decided she needed it more than he did.

Thankfully, they are pretty good at sharing-most of the time.

How to make a DIY hanging chair video

[embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=59tzvS9UKA8[/embedyt]

*some of these links are affiliate links. Read my full disclosure policy HERE *

Supplies to make the hanging chair

• (1) drop cloth OR 2 yards of 10 oz. canvas material. The one I have linked here is the one I prefer for all my DIY projects. The one I used in the tutorial I picked up at the Home Depot (not my fave as its not 100% cotton).
• (1) 36" length of 2" diameter wooden dowel rod. You can find this at your local hardware store and you usually purchase this by the foot. Alternatively, you can purchase a wooden curtain rod and put the end caps on for a more polished look.
• (1) 15' piece of ⅜" nylon/poly blend rope. Again, you can usually find by the foot at your local hardware store. You can also use a more natural sisal rope as well.
• OPTIONAL SUPPLIES: fabric paint or fabric pens to decorate your chair. If you purchase 100% cotton drop cloth, you can also dye your drop cloth using RIT brand fabric dye.
• Sharpie for marking. You can also use a washi tape or painters tape too. Use whatever you have on hand.
• **(1) ⅜" eye bolt. This bolt is what you'll put into your ceiling wherever you choose to hang your chair.
• **(1) ⅜" link snap. This is so you can take your swing down to store it when not in use.

**BE SURE AND CHECK THE WEIGHT LOAD OF YOUR EYEBOLT AND LINK SNAP. IT SHOULD STATE DIRECTLY ON THE PACKAGE.** SEE PICTURE BELOW.**

Tools needed for this DIY chair project

(1) drill with coordinating ⅜" drill bit. My husband recommended pre-drilling the holes with a smaller diameter drill bit first, but I honestly found after trial and error that it really didn't make much difference.

OPTIONAL: you may use a lighter to melt the end of your rope for easy threading through your dowel rod and the drop cloth. You can also put a piece of tape on the end of your rope to keep from fraying as well.

• Sewing machine
• Serger sewing machine (optional)
• Sewing pins (optional)
• Iron
• Scissors or rotary cutter
• Ruler or tape measure 
• Drill
• ⅜" drill bit

Making your DIY drop cloth hanging chair

• Start by washing and drying your drop cloth. I usually wash in really hot water with detergent and bleach. If you don't have bleach, add some vinegar to your wash load. This helps eliminate the smell that drop cloths can sometimes have.

This is why I wash my drop cloths before I use them. This is the water from the wash cycle of a brand new drop cloth. YUCK!

After you have washed your drop cloth material once (or twice), throw it into the dryer. Once it's dry, it's time to mark and cut.

Mark and cut your drop cloth to size

• To begin, fold your drop cloth in half LENGTHWISE.

• Keeping the folded edge on your left hand side, measure up from the FOLDED edge 32" and make a mark using your sharpie marker.

• From that 32" mark, measure our to the right 16" and make another mark.

• Now using the bottom edge of your drop cloth, measure from the folded edge over 24" and make another mark.

• You should now have (3) marks on your folded drop cloth material.
• Now, let's connect the dots (marks) we made.
• Starting at the side seam mark at 32", draw a straight line to connect it to the 16" dot that was to the right of the 32" mark.

• From the 16" mark, draw a line down to meet the 24" mark you made along the bottom edge.
• This is what your pattern should look like before you begin cutting.

• Now grab your scissors or rotary cutter and cut out the seat for your hanging chair.

Before you begin sewing

There should be 3 raw edges of the fabric, and the longest part of the swing has a pre-finished edge from the drop cloth.

How to sew your hanging chair

*** OPTIONAL STEP (if you own a serger sewing machine). If not, skip this step in the tutorial ***

• (Optional: serging the raw edges BEFORE you sew). I added this step as an option for those of you that sew and own a serger sewing machine. Serging the (3) raw edges of the chair can really give it a finished look. Don't worry, if you don't have a serger I will show you how you can get the same finished look without one.
• If you do own a serger and want to do this step, serge the (3) raw edges of the drop cloth. You should have 2 long sides and the top to serge.

Sew your hanging chair without a serger

• Begin at one of the sides of your swing. On your pressing surface or ironing board, fold up the raw edge ¼" and press the length of the side.

• Once you have pressed up your raw edge ¼," go back and fold up that edge another 1.5" and press again. Now you have just enclosed that raw edge. When you stitch it down it will look nice and finished.

• You can pin this down or just press.

How to finish the corners of your chair

Now I'm going to show you how to finish the corners of the seat of the swing that you just folded.

You may have noticed that there's some extra fabric, almost like a "tail" sticking out from the bottom after you've folded your edges over.

So let's fix that now before we sew.

• Begin by folding up that corner at a 90 degree angle. You can press with an iron or just finger pressing works too.

• Now take that piece that you previously pressed at 1.5" and fold that down and over the 90 degree corner you just tucked in. This is what it should look like after its folded in and hidden.

Folded and pinned

Sewing your DIY swing chair

• Once your sewing machine is threaded and ready to go, grab the drop cloth seat that you have pressed (or serger) and ready to be sewn. This step isn't technical, you just want to be sure that however you choose to sew this up, that you have enough room to pass that ⅜" rope through. So don't sew the seam too tight.

• I used the edge of my presser foot as my guide. I placed the edge of my presser foot so it lined up with the folded and pressed (or surged) edge. Sew a straight stitch down the entire side. Make sure you backstitch at the beginning and the end of each row of stitching.
• I chose to re-enforce this line of stitching by completing a second row of stitching ¼" away from the first one. This is optional, I just tend to always over-do things. Heres what it will look like when you have done 2 lines of stitching down one of the sides.

• Notice my edge is serged. If you don't have a serger, you'll have a nice folded seam instead. Both options look nice.

Repeat this step for the opposite side

When you are finished you should have the seat for your hanging chair completed. Fold it up and set it aside for when we put it all together.

Prepping the dowel rod for your chair

Now it's time to get that dowel rod prepped so we can put it all together.

So for this next part, you'll need your drill, the ⅜" drill bit, your wooden dowel, a tape measure, and your sharpie marking pen.

We'll start by marking the rod where we want to drill the holes.

• With your dowel rod, your sharpie and a measuring tape, start on one end of your wooden dowel and place a mark 3" in from the end and 6" in from the end.

• Repeat for the opposite side. When finished, you should have (4) marks visible on the top of your dowel.
• Next, grab your drill and the ⅜" drill bit.

• As I said before, my husband recommended pre-drilling the holes with a smaller drill bit. I personally don't think it made much difference (I've done it both ways), so I'd say why add one extra step. Who needs more work right?

• Make sure you have your dowel rod on a drill-able surface. Don't drill directly onto carpet. I'd normally be doing this inside my husbands work shop on a saw horse, but the lighting in there wasn't very good so I opted to do it in my house. Notice that I have a piece of board under the dowel rod for the drill to go into. NOT the carpet or my new tile floor. Yikes that could be bad.

• Drill all (4) marks on your wooden dowel making sure the holes are drilled all the way through.

• When finished, it should look like this.

Time to sand your dowel rod

Grab a sanding block or a piece of 220 grit sandpaper.

Fold or cut your paper into a small square and sand the top and underside of the dowel rod.

You want to be sure you have sanded off all the splintered pieces of wood. So it's smooth to the touch.

• Nice and smooth. Good work.

Staining the dowel rod*

* This step is optional *

At this stage, you could stain your wooden dowel rod with a wood stain of your choice.

You could also paint the wooden dowel, it's up to you.

Let it dry completely before moving on to the next step.

Assembling your hanging chair

Grab your hanging chair drop cloth seat, your rope, a sharpie, tape measure, dowel rod, and the link snap.

• I personally would recommend watching the video for this step of the tutorial as this may be more confusing to explain. But I will try my best. You can find the video at the top of this post or visit the "video" tab on our website for all the videos I have uploaded to YouTube and watch it there.
• FIND THE CENTER OF YOUR ROPE BY FOLDING YOUR ROPE IN HALF AND MARK THE CENTER WITH YOUR SHARPIE.

• Start by feeding your rope up from the bottom to the top side of your dowel rod. 
• Tie a double knot on the top side of the dowel with your rope. Leave the top just long enough to make a knot. You shouldn't have a massive amount of excess rope here.
  
• From the knot you just made, measure down the rope 40" and place a mark with your sharpie. This is where we're going to tie our next knot (but not quite yet
• 
• 
• Starting at the bottom of the swing seat (widest end), feed the rope up through the channel you made with your sewing machine. For this step I used this inexpensive tool called a BODKIN. If you don't have one of these, you can also use a large safety pin or just the rope itself. Push the rope all the way through this channel and out the top.

• Once you've fed your rope all the way through, much the seat of your swing (the drop cloth) down until the mark you made at 40" is visible. Tie a knot at the 40" mark.

• Now take the end of your rope and feed it up through the dowel rod from the bottom.

DIY hanging chair almost complete

• After you have fed the rope through, find the center mark on your rope and tie a knot leaving a 3" loop to hook the link snap through. Heres a picture, hopefully this helps.

• Now it's time to feed that rope back through the dowel rod again. This time. you're going to be going back down through the INSIDE hole that you drilled (the one closest to the center).

• Once your rope is through the hole, lay your dowel rod on a flat surface and lay the rope flat on the ground as if you were going to hook it to the eye bolt. Make sure you have the same amount of rope and that things look even. This will ensure that the swing hangs nice and straight.

• Now measure 40" from the end of the rope and make a mark.

• Tie a single knot where you made that mark.

• Feed the end of that rope from the TOP of your hanging chair seat to the BOTTOM.

Securing the rope to the hanging rod

• Take the end of your rope now and feed it up from the bottom of your wooden dowel to the top and secure with a double knot.

You have now completed your simple DIY hanging chair.

Ways to customize your hanging chair

• Use fabric pens or fabric paint to really personalize your DIY hanging chair.

Shop this post

• drop cloth (this is the one I prefer most).
• Sewing machine (my fave sewing machine)
• Grid sewing mat (optional for sewing extension table)
• Scissors or rotary cutter 
• Iron
• wool pressing mat (or ironing board)
• Serger sewing machine (optional)
• Ruler 
• Sewing pins (optional)
• Fabric paint pens (optional)
• Fabric paint (optional)
• Eye Bolt (1) ⅜"
• Link snap (1) ⅜"
• Nylon/Poly rope 15' of ⅜" diameter
• Dowel rod 36" long x 2" diameter (purchase by the foot at your local hardware store)
• Drill
• ⅜" drill bit
• Sharpie or pen for markingScissors
• 220 grit sand paper or sanding block
• Bodkin (to feed rope through the drop cloth-optional)

I hope you guys enjoyed making this fun project as much as I did. Thanks so much for joining me for another tutorial.

How do you or your kids like them? Did you have a special way to customize your chair that you'd like to share?

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Learn how to make a simple bucket bag with this FREE sewing pattern and tutorial.

I love to sew. I think that's been established here.

When my daughter asked for a knitting bag, I knew I could make something that was just her size, easy to carry and super functional (not just for knitting).

She has since used her bag for apple picking, trips to Nana and Papas house with all her art supplies, and long road trips carrying all her essentials.

DIY tote bags are some of my favorite things to design and sew. They make great gift bags for people, holiday totes, craft project bags, I mean, who doesn't love a good reusable, washable bag? Am I right?

This tote bag sews together fairly quickly too.

Grab your machine and let's get to sewing!

How to sew a simple bucket bag video tutorial

[embedyt] https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2OW0bv1fu4Q[/embedyt]

Some of these links may be affiliate links, you can read my full disclosure HERE.

You do not NEED all of these things to begin sewing. However, most of these things that I will be discussing are listed because I have found that they make my time sewing a lot easier, therefore more enjoyable.

Supplies for making a bucket bag

I've also added the substitutes that can be used in parenthesis.

• Fabric : 2-3 fabrics of your choice. You'll need an exterior fabric, an interior fabric and a fabric for the binding. Fabric selections are totally up to you. I used a linen/cotton blend for the exterior of the bag pictured above and a quilting cotton for the interior.
• Fusible foam (you can use also use a fusible fleece. This will not give your bag the same stability as fusible foam though).
• Cotton webbing for the bag handles. Width and length of these handles is up to you as well. I used 1.5" wide cotton webbing that was cut into 18" long strips for each handle.
• Sewing machine.
• Iron.
• Applique pressing sheet if you are using a double sided fusible. This inexpensive sewing item will save your iron.
• Sewing pins or clips.
• Ruler.
• Rotary cutter OR scissors.

Optional supplies to consider

• Quilting Gloves 
• Erasable Chalk Pencil to mark quilting lines.

FREE bucket bag sewing pattern

Click on the button below for the bag bottom template. It's a PDF download.

Tips for cutting your fabric for this project

• As always, I recommend washing and ironing your fabric before you begin cutting your pieces out. Some people swear by pre-washing and others will tell you it isn't necessary. I personally prefer it.
• DO NOT PRE-WASH ANY FUSIBLE material, just your fabric. You can thank me for this tip later  when your not peeling a fusible off the inside of your dryer.

Cutting the fabric for your DIY bucket bag

1. Begin by cutting (2) pieces from the EXTERIOR fabric 14.5" long x 12.5" wide.

2. Next, cut (1) piece from EXTERIOR fabric using your bag bottom pattern piece.

3. Cut (2) pieces from INTERIOR fabric 14.5" long x 12.5" wide.

4. From your INTERIOR fabric cut (1) piece using your bag bottom pattern piece.

5. Cut (1) strip of fabric (from the fabric of your choice) for the binding strip. The piece should measure 35 inches long by 3 inches wide.

Cut the fusible fabric and webbing for handles

1. Cut (2) pieces from your FUSIBLE FOAM 14 ½ inches long by 12 ½ inches wide.

2. Next, cut (1) piece of the FUSIBLE FOAM using your bag bottom pattern piece.

3. Then cut (2) pieces of cotton webbing. I recommend using a webbing that's 1 ½ to 2 inches wide and 18 inches long. This is only a recommendation. Make the handles any length and width you prefer. This is just what I used for this particular bag.

Fuse your fabric to the foam

You'll be fusing your EXTERIOR bag pieces to the fusible foam ONLY.

1. Turn your iron on. HIGH heat, NO STEAM.

2. Take each of your 3 pieces of EXTERIOR fabric and fuse them to the coordinating size of the fusible foam. Iron each piece until it is "fused" together 10-15 seconds.

3. When you are finished, you should have (3) pieces of your EXTERIOR fabric fused to fusible foam pieces.

4. You can trim up any excess foam pieces that are sticking out past your fabric if needed.

5. Set these (3) fused pieces aside for now.

Prepare the binding for your bucket bag

• Take the piece of fabric you cut 35" long x 3" wide and press it in half LENGTHWISE wrong sides together (WST).
• Set the binding piece off to the side for when we assemble the bag.

Sewing your Simple Bucket Bag

NOTE: Seam allowance can be ¼ inch or ½ inch for this project. Just be sure you use the SAME seam allowance throughout the entire project. I used ¼ inch for my bag (for reference).

1. Begin by taking your (2) exterior fused bag sides and stitch them together along one of the 12 ½ inch sides.

Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of each line of stitching.

2. After you have sewn the side seam, you'll press this seam open.

3. If you prefer to topstitch, you can topstitch ¼" or ½" on each side of the side seam. The topstitching will always give your projects a more finished look but is totally optional.

Mark your quilting lines on your bag

1. With your ruler and chalk pencil, head to a flat surface and mark your bag exterior sides and exterior bag bottom with some lines you want to quilt.

This stitching will really stand out on fabric fused on foam. It helps keep all your bag pieces together during washing and with extensive use.

Quilting your bucket bag

1. Time to make some decisions about thread. If you use a thread that matches your main fabric, it won't stand out as much.

Using a contrasting thread you'll see your stitching lines more easily. This is all personal preference. For this particular project, I chose a matching thread.

I prefer to wear quilting gloves when I do any quilting work that involves a lot of time. I have found that it eases muscle tension in my shoulders and neck since I'm not working as hard to pull and push my fabric.

Again, gloves are optional though. 

2. Quilt all the lines that you drew on your fabric pieces. Don't forget to quilt the EXTERIOR bag bottom as well.

Sewing the main exterior bucket bag together

1. Take your bag exterior piece and fold RST (right sides together).

2. Using your ¼ inch or ½ inch seam allowance, stitch the remaining side of your bag together.

Don't forget to backstitch at the beginning and end of each line of stitching.

3. Turn your bag RSO (right side out) and topstitch this side seam if you chose to topstitch the other side. This part can be tricky so just take it slow.

Attaching the bag exterior bottom to the bag exterior sides

**** Again, this part requires so easing so just take it slow ****

1. Grab your pins or clips. I prefer clips as I have found that when I try to use pins that I seem to get poked a lot more. If you don't want to purchase expensive sewing clips, mini binder clips work great as a substitute.

2. Make sure for this part that your bag exterior is facing with the right side facing in. When you clip the bottom to the sides, you want the RST (right sides together). So the fusible foam sides of your bag should be facing you.

3. I begin by finding the (4) centers along my bag bottom edge, and clip this first. Then I Slowly begin to clip and EASE the bottom to the bag sides. Clipping or pinning along the way around.

4. Once you have finished clipping or pinning, you'll sew the bag bottom to the sides using the seam allowance you have been using thus far (¼ inch or ½ inch).

Turn your bag right side out

1. After you have finished attaching your bag bottom, turn your bag so it's RSO (right sides facing out).

2. Run your finger along the seam around the base of your bag to make sure there aren't any holes or areas that seem weak. Now is the time to be able to easily fix this. Once you insert and attach your bag liner, it will be very difficult.

3. If you have no holes or areas of concern, set your completed bag EXTERIOR off to the side.

Finishing the interior of your bag

Now you'll begin constructing your bag INTERIOR using the steps you just did to complete the exterior.

You don't need to quilt the interior of your bag, unless you really want to.

1. Sew the 12.5 inch side seam of your bag interior.

2. You can topstitch these seams as well (optional).

3. Attach interior bag bottom to interior sides.

4. Once you have completed assembly of the bag liner, set off to the side for later.

Marking the bag for handle placement

**** This part is really personal preference. Just make sure when you are marking your bag for handle placement, that you leave enough room along the top of your bag to attach the binding ****

1. Using your ruler and chalk pencil, place marks where you'd like your handles to go.

2. Once you have marked your bag for handle placement, set the EXTERIOR of your bag off to the side for later.

3. It's time to construct the handles so we can stitch them on.

Bag handle construction

**** NOTE: If you are using cotton webbing as I did, you need to decide if you want the stitching lines on your handles to be visible or not.

I choose to hide these as much as possible by using a matching thread. So if you want to hide them, change your thread and bobbin thread now ****

1. The first thing to do when you begin making bag handles using just cotton webbing, is to fold the end of each strap down and stitch. This will hide the raw edge.

2. Repeat for the remaining strap ends.

Rolling the webbing for a comfortable handle

**** NOTE: This step is also optional, but I really prefer the finished look and feel of a rolled handle. But if you prefer, you can skip this step ****

1. Begin by folding each of your straps in half and finding the center. Mark with a pin or pencil mark.

2. Once you have identified the center of each strap, determine how long you want the roll on each handle to be.

For my straps, I measured 5 inches from the center pin on each side. The total rolled area of my handle will be 10 inches long.

This will leave me enough room to attach my handle easily as well. Again, the amount of roll you want to your handle is up to you.

3. Clip or pin your handle.

4. Begin sewing using ¼ inch seam allowance through both layers of webbing. This is a lot of bulk so go slow.

**** It may help to use a denim needle if you find your machine has difficulty with layers. I have found that cotton webbing is far easier to sew through than most other webbing materials ****

5. Make sure you backstitch at the beginning and end of these lines of stitching- THIS IS IMPORTANT!

Your handle is going to get a lot of wear and tear so you want to be sure it is properly stitched. I actually sew over the same line of stitching multiple times, just to be sure it's really secure, especially if you are going to wash this bag.

6. Repeat the above steps for the other bag handle.

Attaching the bag handles to the bag

1. Using the mark you created earlier, place you bag handles onto the bag exterior and pin in place. I prefer pins for this part just to make sure the handles don't shift at all when sewing them on.

**** NOTE: Be sure that your bag handles aren't twisted ****

Make sure that the raw edge you turned under on your handles are laying up against your bag exterior-you don't want to see this.

Again, change your thread if you don't want to see it. This is your last chance to do that.

2. Stitch into place. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each line of stitching. I always try to go over the same lines of stitching I already did. Keeps it nice and clean looking.

3. Repeat for all (4) handle ends.

Insert the bag liner into our bag exterior

1. This is called a "drop-in" liner. You're literally going to take the liner and drop it into the bag WST (wrong sides together).

So the exterior of your bag stays pretty side out, and the liners wrong side is going to stay facing the wrong side of your bag exterior when dropped into place.

2. Begin by clipping or pinning the side seams together. Then working around the top of your bag, ease the raw top edges together all the way around. 

By now your bag should start looking more like a bag. Yay!

3. Now we're going to attach the liner to the bag exterior using a basting stitch. This just means that you're going to lengthen your stitch to a 4.5 or 5 and NOT backstitch.

Consider basting a temporary stitch to hold this in place. At the end of bag construction, you can easily snip, and pull the thread out.

4. Baste stitch the entire way around the top of your bag.

Attaching the binding

1. This part can be a bit tricky. If you are a quilter and you're familiar with attaching quilt binding, this step will be a cinch.

2. Grab the binding strip you created earlier.  You're also going to need clips or pins for this step, and some patience.

3. Beginning at one of your side seams, match the raw edge of your binding strip, to the raw edge of your bags top. You'll want to begin clipping or pining by leaving yourself an 8 to 9-inch tail before your pinned area.

You'll see why in a minute.

4. Pin your binding strip to the top of your bag all the way around, stopping at the other side about 8 to 10 inches AWAY from the other pinned side. You're creating a "GAP" in the binding attachment.

Return your stitch length back to standard setting

**** Make sure that your machine is returned back to the normal stitch length after you have basted. The normal stitch length is 2.5 to 3.5 depending on the make and model of your machine ****

If you aren't sure what the standard stitch length is for your machine, check your manual.

5. Sew around the top edge of your bag to attach the binding. When you are finished, you should have a gap like the one pictured above.

6. Next, carefully open up the two ends of your binding strips.

Now for the tricky part.

7. Making sure the binding strips aren't twisted. Lay the two open ends of the binding strip RST (right sides together).

8. Pinch the strips together so they would lay nice and flat if sewn together. They should lay flat against the exterior of the bag, slightly tight, and not have a bunch of excess fabric or bulging.

9. Pin through both layers of the strap to hold them together where you'll want to stretch them.

10. Continue to lay the strips flat, RST, and pin along the entire binding strip. Make sure the pins don't shift.

11. Sew a straight line from the top to the bottom of the binding strip.

Trimming the excess fabric from the binding

Ok, so you have just finished sewing the binding strip together.

DO NOT CUT the excess fabric from the strip until you have checked to make sure that

*The strips lay flat against the bag.

* That the binding isn't twisted.

* Be sure there isn't a lot of excess fabric.

12. Once you have double checked that everything is as it should be, trim away the excess fabric from the binding.

Trim about ½inch away from your line of stitching.

13. Finger press that seam open.

14. After you have finger-pressed your seam open, fold the binding strip back into place. Raw edges should be meeting at the top.

15. So now you can take it back to your sewing machine and finish that line of stitching. Begin sewing right over the top of your last line and overlap a bit to make sure it won't come undone.

16. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Stitch in the ditch around the top

We are officially on the last step to complete this adorable bag.

1. Ok, so now take that binding strip that you just finished attaching to your bag, and flip it up, over the top raw edge, and towards the center of your bag.

2. Fold it up and over then clip or pin it into place around the entire top edge of your bag.

3. Stitch in that seam that you created between the bag exterior and the binding.

This technique is called stitching in the ditch.

If you are slow and careful, that stitching line should be hidden within that seam and you won't see it. It will catch the binding on the inside of your bag as well.

It's totally genius. In my sewing opinion that is.

Completed Simple bucket tote bag

Congratulations! You have just finished your tote bag.

What are your favorite things to sew? I love sewing just about anything, but tote bags are probably one of my favorites because of their versatility.

Shop this post:

• Sewing Machine

• Thread Trimming Scissor

• Cutting Mat

• Rotary Cutter

• Scissors

• Iron

• Applique Pressing Sheet

• Cutting Ruler

• Quilting Gloves

• Erasable Chalk pencil

• Height adjustable sewing tables

• Pins

• Pin Cushion

• Clover Quick Clips

• Fusible Foam

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I hope you guys enjoy this free pattern and tutorial. Make sure you tag me over on IG with all your makes. I love seeing the patterns come to life.

Happy sewing!